Day Four (I think)--Into the Hills

I am not able to write every day, so this post is post-dated for Sunday, September 2, 2007. Pictures to follow later.
So last night after dinner we conversed with the other guests to Torvaig House in the drawing room. It was wonderfully intimate, and we chatted with a German couple and Dutch couple until after midnight. The conversation was lively and enjoyable and reminded me of one of the things I've always liked about Europe--diversity. People from different countries are so diverse and each have different ideas about how life should be lived and how things should be done. It can be amusing and insightful to gather together. We had a great chat about immigration in our perspective countries, the spending habits of Americans and different western Europeans. The young German woman was studying goldsmithing, so we had lots to discuss in terms of jewelry design, being that is my chosen profession, as well. It was comraderie and connection, a truly international evening. There was talk of BMW motorcyles and Harleys. Both the German woman and the Dutch couple drove Harleys. In fact, the Dutch couple brought their Harley's over from Belgium and have been touring on them through Scotland. My husband drives a BMW. He was envious of their motorcyle journey, hoping we'll follow suit one day. So there was fun banter about which bike was really the better on long distance drives. One of them noted that if it's raining you'll only see BMW drivers. That's true. They are pretty hard core. So, because of this delightful (but late) evening, we slept in until 10:30am. We rushed downstairs to grab breakfast before shoving off towards MacLeod's Table--a mountain we were intent on summiting on the western side of Skye.MacLeod is a very common name in Skye. In fact, the two main clans here historically were the waring MacLeods and MacDonalds. Almost every native on the island is ancestorally linked to one or the other. The clans seemed to live in continual conflict (like most clans)--each one always seeking revenge for a previous wrong done to them by the other. It probably wasn't until the feudal clan system was officially done away with that peaceableness came between the clans. Now I'm not sure if people here know who is of whose blood, as they are probably fairly mixed these days. Unless, of course, their name is MacLeod or MacDonald. So anyway, back to our day's journey. We were off to MacLeod's Table, but on the way we took in the sights--including a very amusing Walking and Wellies named outdoor gear store which also had on their sign that they carried lingerie. Hmmm....any ideas about that one? We gave it a nice chuckle. The sun was out today in full force, a rarity here. So we took full advantage and made a stop at Dun Beag Broch--an Iron Age broch, or fort.Supposedly, no one really knows why ancient peoples here built brochs. Although, one theory is that they were used as fire beacons warning others of approaching foreign vessels and invaders. These were supposed to still be in use when the Norsemen began their Hebridean raids here. Interesting more the less. There is just the circular ground enclosure left, with a small stone fort facade built up around the edges. it's high up on a hill with great views to the sea and lochs and mountains around. Nowadays only sheep use it. Mainly as a toilet.But I digress...Heading back to the car we noticed that the heather and ferns in theis part of Skye grow very near the ground to survive. This land here is very wind swept, or it seems to be, at least. I can't imagine the savagery of winter here! There are no great trees in these parts, and the heather takes on a thicker, bunchier appearance quite unlike the longer heather in the Highlands. But it's a hardy plant--I'll give it that! So, MacLeod's Table--next stop. In the Skye mythology, MacLeod's Table got it's name from a MacLeod chief who decided he needed a really big banquet table and couldn't find ones so decided to spread a table cloth over the mountain top and place torch bearers all around, making it the largest banqueting table ever know. Being mythology, we can doubt this ever happened, but none the less, MacLeod's Table stuck as the mountain's name. Actually, there are 2 flat-topped mountains called MacLeod's Table--Healabhal Meag and Healabhal Mor. We climbed the wider of the two--Healabhal Beag. Our hotel receptionist was kind enough to lend us her totgraphical map of the area--as we had no official hiking trails booklets. Dave, being quite the mountaineer and pathfinder, figured a way to the top by initially following a shep trail--which came and went the further we got on . Let it be known: There is no REAL trail. You make it up as you go along. So be forewarned. The trail was wet, or maybe I should say soggy. The gound is like a sponge and with every step you sink a little. The trick is to miss the real bogs--or holes in the ground filled with water--usually hidden by overgrown grasses. I stepped in four. Let's just say my shoes were soaked by the end. If you choose to hike in Scotland, he prepared (or, more prepared than we were) and wear VERY waterproof boots or wellies.
It was quite a fun climb, none the less. Most of it was moderate, becoming steeper towards the end. I was just so happy to reach the top and enjoy the enormous views from 488 meters (that's 1,601 feet from sea level for the metrically challenged). The top was flat--I mean FLAT--and grassy.Oh, and VERY boggy. In fact, two of my "feet wettings" happened up there. When we topped the Table the winds nearly blew us over. Now I understand why the top is flat!We enjoyed cheese and HobNobs (a British sweet oat biscuit) and watched the clouds roll in over the sea and lochs. We could see the whole of Skye from up there. Looking out towards the town of Dunvegan (our next stop) we watched a rainbow appear and disappear many times before presenting us with a magical double rainbow. It was a nice end to the climb. But I was tired and ready to get down. It had taken us two hours to summit, and I wanted us to descend in much less time. So, like a horse to the barn, we scurried down the mountain and found our way back to our car, parked on the road side next to an open gate we used to enter the land at the foot of the Table. Tired, we dragged ourselves to Dunvegan Castle--my "must stop" for the day.Although, I have to say, a real let down. It's not really worth a stop (in my opinion). I think it's better photographed than toured. But it's worth mentioning it's historical significance. It's the ancestral home of the Clan MacLeod and is said to be one of the oldest inhabited castles in Scotland. A wing of the castle is still occupied by the Hugh Magnus MacLeod family (he's the current Chief of Clan MacLeod). It has an interesting gardens and a lovely view of the sea and isles. But the tour was uneventful. Well, there were some Raeburn paintings worthy of a look, but most of the house was tired and worn. Well, the dungeon might be a poll for some. Anyway, we left there even more exhausted and headed to our hotel about an hour to the southeast. We arrived in time for good hot baths, some pre-dinner drinks (whiskey, thank you!) and our delicious 4 course meal--after which no food was left on the plate. We took after dinner coffee in the lounge once more and had another lovely chat with the Dutch couple and headed off to bed. Another very late night. But more on that tomorrow...